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WineSpectator品酒热点:阿尔萨斯

来源:     作者: 红酒客 Adrian 编译    2006-08-18 17:41:00


作者: Bruce Sanderson

      2004的酒颜色澄清、口感平顺、酒体平衡。
      阿尔萨斯产区2004年份的酒我个人很喜欢:活泼、清爽、平衡,具有清晰的果香和透明度,terroirs的特征很好的被表达了出来。我品尝了76瓶最近发布的雷司令(Riesling)和琼瑶浆(Gewürztraminers),其中1/3能在Wine Spectator的百分制打分中获得杰出的分数(90分以上)。
      04年的雷司令很干,具有清新的酸度。琼瑶浆似乎要贵一点(因为今年收获的葡萄含有更多的糖分),但确实表现出很好的口感和平衡度。Josmeyer这个牌子的酒是其中最干的。
      花岗岩质土壤(Kaefferkopf和Schlossberg牌)偏向出产香气四溢而又质地开放的酒,石灰石和泥灰质土壤(Furstentum,和Mambourg牌)则使酒含有更丰富的结构和更强劲的力道。Schoenenbourg同时包括了石灰石和泥灰质土壤,同时还有石膏和沙质。这是一种很复杂的土壤,结构丰富的雷司令需要时间来体现她的品质。
 
评分 Score Price
HUGEL Riesling Alsace Jubilée 2004 93 $36
Though not on the label, this comes from the grand cru Schoenenbourg vineyard. Peach and lemon flavors vie with the tart structure in this lean, sharp white. There's richness there, but it's tightly wound and needs time to integrate. Be patient; this has potential and will show more mineral notes with age. Very good value. Best from 2008 through 2018. 150 cases imported. —B.S.
 
ALBERT MANN Gewürztraminer Alsace Grand Cru Furstentum Vieilles Vignes 2004 93 $32
Spearmint and hard lemon candy aromas segue into litchi, grapefruit and spice flavors in this complex, full-throttle white. Off-dry, yet balanced, it picks up acidity and a hint of bitterness on the lingering finish. Very good value. 100 cases imported. —B.S.
 
ALBERT MANN Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg 2004 93 $29
Rich and peppery, this full-bodied, floral white quickly turns firm and drying. So intense. The ripe apple, white peach and mineral notes are matched to a lacy texture and return on the finish; give this a little time. Fine power and balance. Best from 2008 through 2018. Excellent value. 200 cases imported. —B.S.
 
WEINBACH Gewürztraminer Alsace Grand Cru Mambourg Cuvée Laurence 2004 93 $159
Lush yet balanced, with enough acidity offsetting the light sweetness and framing the citrus candy, honey and dried rose flavors. Medium-bodied and graceful, this lingers with a honey and citrus aftertaste. 30 cases imported. —B.S.
 
JOSMEYER Gewürztraminer Alsace Grand Cru Brand 2004 92 $59
An elegant style, on the dry side, with more spice and litchi notes, accented by grapefruit peel. It has fine intensity and integration, ending with a long, floral and spice aftertaste. 125 cases made. —B.S.
 
WEINBACH Gewürztraminer Alsace Altenbourg Cuvée Laurence 2004 92 $71
Intense and rich, this has a hint of sweetness that carries its honey, spice and mineral flavors. The last are particularly pronounced, from the graphite aroma to the long, salty finish. 75 cases imported. —B.S.
 
J.-B. ADAM Gewürztraminer Alsace Kaefferkopf Cuvée Jean-Baptiste Vieilles Vignes 2004 91 $57
Opulent and harmonious, this is silky and evokes honey, litchi and grapefruit notes, with a good underlying structure. That keeps the flavors focused through the long finish. —B.S.
 
WEINBACH Gewürztraminer Alsace Grand Cru Furstentum Cuvée Laurence 2004 91 $79
An off-dry style, showing licorice, honey, peach and spice notes. It seems a little compact, despite its richness, yet has intensity and length. It's even chalky on the mineral-tinged finish. 50 cases imported. —B.S.
 
J.-B. ADAM Riesling Alsace Kaefferkopf Cuvée Jean-Baptiste Vieilles Vignes 2004